Thursday, January 17, 2019 – Iguazu Falls
We slept soundly until 5:30. Then the noises of the jungle coming to life were too loud to not notice. We rested our eyes until about 7:00 then got up and ready for breakfast. No rush today as our tour did not start until 9:00.
It was hot and sunny already - just walking to the lodge for breakfast was enough to make one sweat. After Patagonia and the Andes, this was a pleasant shock to the system. We'd better soak up as much warmth and sunshine as possible, because it is sure to be frigid when we get home.
Breakfast was decent, but a fairly small selection on the buffet. We were ready to meet Nieves at 9:00, and off we went. It was about an hour drive out along the Parana River to the boat launch at Casa Bemberg. We passed through a few small towns along the way.
Then a bumpy dirt road, which led to the bank up above the river's edge.
We were the only ones on this tour today, which is exclusively for Awasi guests. Well, it was us along with a big group of beautiful orange butterflies! They came along for the ride too.
We boated north along the river, straddling the border between Paraguay and Argentina for a while.
Some cool sights along the way.
There was a tiny church tucked into the jungle, high up on the riverbank. This is Capilla Puerto Bemberg.
After heading north for 15 minutes or so, we turned into the Yasi Arroyo, which was full of flowing water at this time of the year.
In a minute we had a special treat.
There was a beautiful waterfall here!
We had time for many more pictures. We were the only boat there, and the cool spray from the falls was refreshing. The sun was intense, and as soon as the boat stopped moving it felt very hot.
After leaving Yasi Arroyo, we turned back to the south along the Parana, now with Argentina on the left and Paraguay on the right.
This butterfly must have had superglue on his feet! He (or she) hung on to the open deck for the entire ride, while the boat was flying along at full speed! I wonder why they are so interested in staying with us?
Partway home, we turned off into Uruguay Creek. Here we stopped for a short hike to a basalt shelf where the Guarani (Indigenous tribe) had buried the bones of their relatives. Then we hiked down to a kayak launching spot and went out on the river.
Chris and Nieves did their best to leave me behind. I obliged and took pictures.
It was peaceful and quiet with an occasional breeze as we paddled up the creek for about 40 minutes. We stopped for a break here and there. The sun was intense! Hope we put on enough sunscreen.
We tried to explore some small side creeks, but couldn’t get into any due to blockages. At one point we heard a waterfall, but that creek was blocked off too. The main creek was
So we headed back to the launch site. Lucky we didn't stay out longer, as it started to rain! You can see the first few drops hitting the river here. This weather changes so quickly!
All told we were out over an hour and hopefully we didn’t get too badly burned!
There were a ton of butterflies swarming around the launch site when we returned. What were they looking for? Shelter from the storm?
As we disembarked from the kayaks, we noticed that lunch was set up in a little pavilion above the river. We had chilled melon soup, which was really nice after that hot kayak ride. Then sandwiches, wine, and lots of water. This butterfly was interested in my camera.
We had sweated off a ton, and my shirt was drenched. Butterflies need salt, so one of them latched on to me and stayed for a few minutes, licking the salt from my shirt! Pretty cool to see that. I managed to get a video:
Back in the speedboat for a 10-minute ride back to Casa Bemberg and that was the end of the tour. All told we’d been out on the river for about 4 hours and it was a really enjoyable thing to have done.
And we did technically cross over the border into Paraguay, because the boundary runs down the middle of the river. And I picked up a cell phone signal from Paraguay too. But alas, we didn't touch our feet on the soil, so I can't really say that we visited Paraguay. Another time, perhaps.
But now, we needed to see the real waterfall! So we drove about an hour to the National Park and entered the main gates.
We made it in plenty of time for the 4:00 train to Devil’s Throat, and Nieves knew all of the tricks to make that a great hike. While waiting for the train, there were coatis to see.
They are a little too tame for my liking, but there are so many people here that it is inevitable.
It’s a long train ride, and we had to get off at an intermediate station to wait for another train. But due to Nieves's excellent tactics, we were first off the train and first on the Devil's Throat trail. Chris kept the pace going so we zipped along at the head of the line. We were first there after a kilometer of hiking on the catwalks. The falls came into view as we neared the finish line.
What a view! The mist was flying and the water was everywhere. It was hard to keep your camera lens dry.
The falls are so powerful that you can feel them roar.
Devil’s Throat is far from the only cataract here. There are a multitude of cascades everywhere you look. And often, a rainbow due to all of the mist.
Across the river gorge, you can see the Brazilian side of the park, where we will visit tomorrow. Hopefully, I did the Brazilian e-visa correctly, and they will let us in!
The view downriver is somewhat obscured by all of the mist.
It's amazing. Pictures do not do it justice. If you pan a video camera you may have a chance.
We couldn't get over the sheer power of the Devil's Throat. Horseshoe Falls is the only thing that comes close, in my mind.
We lingered for some pictures as the crowd thinned, then the rangers started rounding people up for the last train.
So we headed back at a leisurely pace.
Here you can see some remnants of a prior catwalk, which had been destroyed by flooding some years back.
This river is a massive force to be reckoned with. It looks calm and peaceful, but the sheer volume of water is staggering when you see it and feel it up close.
We had a half-full train for the first part of the journey, but then it got very crowded so we were squeezed in for the second half. But we got out of the park right about 6:00 and we were back at Awasi for a quick dip in our pool by 6:30, then a shower before dinner.
We were hoping to go on the full moon walk tonight at 8:30, which was another unexpected bonus. Apparently I'd scheduled our visit to correspond with the full moon, and on clear nights the park opens for a guided walk to the falls under moonlight!
But there were some clouds out so it might not happen; apparently, they cancel the walk if the weather is too iffy. And, at 7:00 we got the call that the walk was canceled. Oh well, that has its advantages too – we don’t have to rush dinner.
Dinner tonight was great. We had a welcome drink from Pepe that was gin muddled with mint and pineapple, then mixed with tonic.
We sat inside tonight, and basked in the coolness of the AC after being outside all day. More animals tonight. Each Awasi lodge has kept up this tradition of cute table decorations. All different, and all reflect regional life.
Appetizers were beetroot tartare served with blue cheese ice cream for me, accompanied by Pais (called Criolla here). Chris tried the Trujillo meat, served with a Torrontes.
That was followed by a local freshwater fish (called Surubi) with coconut rice for me, served with Chardonnay. And there was a delicious pork tenderloin dish, served with Rosé of Malbec, for Chris.
Desserts were equally nice – pineapple in a sweet/savory sauce, and chocolate with slices of mild chili pepper on top served with a red pepper and tomato granité. That came with a Viognier.
Off to bed around 10:00, as we had an early day tomorrow – starting at 7:00. Lots of hiking, and many more waterfalls on the agenda!
We slept soundly until 5:30. Then the noises of the jungle coming to life were too loud to not notice. We rested our eyes until about 7:00 then got up and ready for breakfast. No rush today as our tour did not start until 9:00.
It was hot and sunny already - just walking to the lodge for breakfast was enough to make one sweat. After Patagonia and the Andes, this was a pleasant shock to the system. We'd better soak up as much warmth and sunshine as possible, because it is sure to be frigid when we get home.
 |
| Plaza San Martin, Puerto Liberdad, Argentina |
 |
| Rio Parana. Argentina, with Paraguay on the far side |
Then a bumpy dirt road, which led to the bank up above the river's edge.
We were the only ones on this tour today, which is exclusively for Awasi guests. Well, it was us along with a big group of beautiful orange butterflies! They came along for the ride too.
 |
| Rio Parana. Paraguay to the Left, Argentina on the Right |
We boated north along the river, straddling the border between Paraguay and Argentina for a while.
 |
| Paraguayan Car Wash, Rio Parana |
Some cool sights along the way.
There was a tiny church tucked into the jungle, high up on the riverbank. This is Capilla Puerto Bemberg.
After heading north for 15 minutes or so, we turned into the Yasi Arroyo, which was full of flowing water at this time of the year.
In a minute we had a special treat.
There was a beautiful waterfall here!
 |
| Yasi Falls, or so we were told |
We had time for many more pictures. We were the only boat there, and the cool spray from the falls was refreshing. The sun was intense, and as soon as the boat stopped moving it felt very hot.
After leaving Yasi Arroyo, we turned back to the south along the Parana, now with Argentina on the left and Paraguay on the right.
This butterfly must have had superglue on his feet! He (or she) hung on to the open deck for the entire ride, while the boat was flying along at full speed! I wonder why they are so interested in staying with us?
 |
| Kayaks in Rio Uruguay, Argentina |
Partway home, we turned off into Uruguay Creek. Here we stopped for a short hike to a basalt shelf where the Guarani (Indigenous tribe) had buried the bones of their relatives. Then we hiked down to a kayak launching spot and went out on the river.
Chris and Nieves did their best to leave me behind. I obliged and took pictures.
It was peaceful and quiet with an occasional breeze as we paddled up the creek for about 40 minutes. We stopped for a break here and there. The sun was intense! Hope we put on enough sunscreen.
We tried to explore some small side creeks, but couldn’t get into any due to blockages. At one point we heard a waterfall, but that creek was blocked off too. The main creek was
 |
| Raindrops on Rio Uruguay, Argentina |
So we headed back to the launch site. Lucky we didn't stay out longer, as it started to rain! You can see the first few drops hitting the river here. This weather changes so quickly!
All told we were out over an hour and hopefully we didn’t get too badly burned!
There were a ton of butterflies swarming around the launch site when we returned. What were they looking for? Shelter from the storm?
As we disembarked from the kayaks, we noticed that lunch was set up in a little pavilion above the river. We had chilled melon soup, which was really nice after that hot kayak ride. Then sandwiches, wine, and lots of water. This butterfly was interested in my camera.
We had sweated off a ton, and my shirt was drenched. Butterflies need salt, so one of them latched on to me and stayed for a few minutes, licking the salt from my shirt! Pretty cool to see that. I managed to get a video:
Back in the speedboat for a 10-minute ride back to Casa Bemberg and that was the end of the tour. All told we’d been out on the river for about 4 hours and it was a really enjoyable thing to have done.
And we did technically cross over the border into Paraguay, because the boundary runs down the middle of the river. And I picked up a cell phone signal from Paraguay too. But alas, we didn't touch our feet on the soil, so I can't really say that we visited Paraguay. Another time, perhaps.
But now, we needed to see the real waterfall! So we drove about an hour to the National Park and entered the main gates.
We made it in plenty of time for the 4:00 train to Devil’s Throat, and Nieves knew all of the tricks to make that a great hike. While waiting for the train, there were coatis to see.
They are a little too tame for my liking, but there are so many people here that it is inevitable.
 |
| First View of Devil's Throat, Iguazu NP, Argentina |
It’s a long train ride, and we had to get off at an intermediate station to wait for another train. But due to Nieves's excellent tactics, we were first off the train and first on the Devil's Throat trail. Chris kept the pace going so we zipped along at the head of the line. We were first there after a kilometer of hiking on the catwalks. The falls came into view as we neared the finish line.
What a view! The mist was flying and the water was everywhere. It was hard to keep your camera lens dry.
The falls are so powerful that you can feel them roar.
Devil’s Throat is far from the only cataract here. There are a multitude of cascades everywhere you look. And often, a rainbow due to all of the mist.
Across the river gorge, you can see the Brazilian side of the park, where we will visit tomorrow. Hopefully, I did the Brazilian e-visa correctly, and they will let us in!
The view downriver is somewhat obscured by all of the mist.
It's amazing. Pictures do not do it justice. If you pan a video camera you may have a chance.
We couldn't get over the sheer power of the Devil's Throat. Horseshoe Falls is the only thing that comes close, in my mind.
We lingered for some pictures as the crowd thinned, then the rangers started rounding people up for the last train.
So we headed back at a leisurely pace.
Here you can see some remnants of a prior catwalk, which had been destroyed by flooding some years back.
This river is a massive force to be reckoned with. It looks calm and peaceful, but the sheer volume of water is staggering when you see it and feel it up close.
We had a half-full train for the first part of the journey, but then it got very crowded so we were squeezed in for the second half. But we got out of the park right about 6:00 and we were back at Awasi for a quick dip in our pool by 6:30, then a shower before dinner.
We were hoping to go on the full moon walk tonight at 8:30, which was another unexpected bonus. Apparently I'd scheduled our visit to correspond with the full moon, and on clear nights the park opens for a guided walk to the falls under moonlight!
But there were some clouds out so it might not happen; apparently, they cancel the walk if the weather is too iffy. And, at 7:00 we got the call that the walk was canceled. Oh well, that has its advantages too – we don’t have to rush dinner.
 |
| Sundowner at Awasi Iguazu |
Dinner tonight was great. We had a welcome drink from Pepe that was gin muddled with mint and pineapple, then mixed with tonic.
We sat inside tonight, and basked in the coolness of the AC after being outside all day. More animals tonight. Each Awasi lodge has kept up this tradition of cute table decorations. All different, and all reflect regional life.
 |
| Beetroot Tartare with Blue Cheese Ice Cream, Awasi Iguazu |
Appetizers were beetroot tartare served with blue cheese ice cream for me, accompanied by Pais (called Criolla here). Chris tried the Trujillo meat, served with a Torrontes.
 |
| Pork Sirloin with Bulgur Salad, Awasi Iguazu |
That was followed by a local freshwater fish (called Surubi) with coconut rice for me, served with Chardonnay. And there was a delicious pork tenderloin dish, served with Rosé of Malbec, for Chris.
Desserts were equally nice – pineapple in a sweet/savory sauce, and chocolate with slices of mild chili pepper on top served with a red pepper and tomato granité. That came with a Viognier.
Off to bed around 10:00, as we had an early day tomorrow – starting at 7:00. Lots of hiking, and many more waterfalls on the agenda!
