Monday, January 21, 2019

Day 19 - Home to Winter at Last

Monday, January 21, 2019 – Back Home

On Board AR 1300, EZE-JFK
Dinner service was OK – beet salad to start, we both had salmon for an entrée, and then cheese and ice cream for dessert of which we ate very little. There was a nice Torrontes to go with the meal.

Time for a movie (The Martian) and then some sleep. The seats aren’t full lie-flat style but they are the angled seats with a footrest, like a dentist’s chair. Should be good!



***

We slept maybe 4 hours before turbulence awoke us at 8:00 Argentina time. We still had 2 hours to go before landing. We couldn’t sleep much more and the turbulence went on so long that they canceled breakfast service! So we were tired and hungry when we landed around 7:45 New York time, though we were quite glad to be there early.

It took a while to find a gate of course, but we were off the plane around 8:05 and through immigration quickly after that. Baggage wasn’t too slow, and we were out by 8:30. I was worried that one of the wine bags looked wet, but it wasn't leaking so no time to stop and check now. We had to step outside for a minute to cross the street for the AirTrain from Terminal 7 and the cold was brutal!

We went to Hertz and grabbed our car, and we were on the road at 9:00. Traffic was great and we stopped for a coffee and snack at a rest area in Westcheser at 9:40 – much earlier than expected. Roads were OK to begin with, but we had a bit of a problem with the rental car in that the windshield washer didn’t work reliably which was a real pain towards the end when we got some road spray. And the E-ZPass tag didn’t work either! But we made it home right at noon. Fantastic time!

The rental car couldn’t get more than one third of the way up our driveway so we carried the suitcases the rest of the way up. And finally, we were home! We checked the wine with some trepidation, but all was intact, miraculously.

After a shower and more coffee, we returned the rental car to the Albany Airport. The return area was a zoo but I made it.


Then we grabbed some Chinese takeout for lunch, and called it a successful trip. Lots of great memories of beautiful landscapes, fascinating geology, great wildlife, and all the little things that Awasi did to make our trip so special. How lucky we were to experience all of this - and to get out of Upstate New York for most of January!

Sunday, January 20, 2019

Day 18 - A Day in Buenos Aires

Sunday, January 20, 2019 – Buenos Aires

We were up at 6:30 but fell asleep again until 9:00. We were worried that breakfast only went until 10:00, so we hurried there to find that it did go until 11:00. So we had plenty of time. The buffet was nice, and we had our fill. Then we decided to ask about our late check out request.

Along Calle Florida, Buenos Aires
The clerk said that he could do it, but it would cost the full room rate for an 8PM check out. He encouraged us to store our bags, wander the city, and come back to the spa for a shower before we left. He said that he’d give us the room until 1:00 for free, so we took that, and went back to Florida Street to see if we could find any wine packing supplies. Just to be on the safe side, it would be nice to reinforce those wooden boxes.
Gallerias Pacifico, Buenos Aires



Given that it was a Sunday, and our usual luck finding supplies, of course there were none to be found. But we got a nice view of the mall anyway.



San Martin's Tomb, National Cathedral, Buenos Aires





We walked further than last night and reached the National Cathedral. Even though Mass was in session, we could slip in and see San Martin’s Tomb. It reminded us of Napoleon’s Tomb in Paris. Then we hustled back to the hotel to pack up.




Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires

We were ready to check out at 1:00, and head off to the Puerto Madero region for aimless wandering!

The sun was warm and the weather very pleasant despite a breeze and a temp of only 75. We soaked it up, knowing that it was much colder back home.




We spent several hours wandering the port, looking for a late lunch place. And enjoying the views.





Drink Break at Temple Brewery, Buenos Aires




We found several good lunch candidates and settled on our number one choice. We stopped at the Temple Brewery for a drink or two to stay cool and well-hydrated.








And we stopped here and there at shady benches for a rest. And more pictures.







We ended up making a large circuit around most of the port area. It took a few hours, with all the stops that we made. I just hope I put enough sunscreen on. Flying home with a sunburn would not be much fun, and there is a lot of sun today.



Malbec with a view. El Mirasol del Puerto, Buenos Aires


Lunch was at 4:00, and it was delicious. We had settled on El Mirasol del Puerto, and we got a prime table at the edge of the patio. Nice shade, but a great view.  We cracked a bottle of Malbec from Bodega Ruca Malen - where we had lunch in Mendoza a few days ago.



Late Lunch at El Mirasol del Puerto, Buenos Aires



We had roasted peppers and arugula salad for starters, and a rib eye and a filet for mains. They aren't big into side dishes here. Just a slab of meat on a plate. No distractions. Just delicious!







We had Papas Fritas a la Espanol (fried thick slices, not French-cut) for a side. We were too full for dessert but had cappuccinos to pass the time until they brought us the check.






We slowly made our way back to the Galleria Mall to look for geodes or other rock statuary, to take home as a souvenir. But it was Sunday, so we didn’t find any good stores that were open. We did grab a few more pesos from the ATM to pay for a taxi to the airport. Then we spent a few minutes relaxing in Place San Martin before reluctantly going back to the hotel for a shower and a change.

We were able to use the spa for a shower, so we cleaned up and had fresh clothes for the plane. Then we had the hotel call us a taxi and we were off. Traffic was light and the ride took barely 30 minutes, and again the cost was just what I had expected - $1200 pesos (about $30 US).

We hopped on the line to get our wine boxes wrapped up in plastic, for good measure. Good thing we got on line when we did, as the line got VERY long behind us!

There was really no line at Sky Priority, and we checked our bags and our wine, wondering how much would make it home. Then off to the scrum for boarding pass control (no Sky Priority line here), then security (pretty fast, and not too thorough), then passport control (Sky Priority line, but maybe a 15 minute wait). After all of that, we were through and in the lounge by 9:30, so it had taken almost an hour since arrival to complete the whole process. Not too bad.

The lounge was OK, food offerings were snack material but we were still stuffed from lunch. Soon it was time to board so we went to the gate, expecting additional security to comply with TSA standards. Turns out it was just a hand search of carry-on bags for matches and lighters, which took minimal time. We settled in with a glass of champagne and waited for takeoff.

The searches must have been pretty efficient because we pushed back right on time and were airborne by 11:40. On track for an early arrival back home - and zero degree weather in the forecast! 

Saturday, January 19, 2019

Day 17 - Iguazu to Buenos Aires

Saturday, January 19, 2019 – Last View of Iguazu

Up early today, long before the alarm at 6:30. We were off at 7:00 again for breakfast at the Melia, with more views of the falls. We liked the early start we got yesterday and wanted to try that again.

Salto Alvar Nunez, Lower Circuit
So we found ourselves hiking the lower circuit at 8:10, and because of the early start, it was almost a private tour. We saw a flock of toucans as we started off which was great! Except that I had forgotten to bring my camera. Of course!

The first waterfall was named after Alvar Nunez Cabeza de Vaca.

Amazingly, there were little birds clinging to the rock walls behind the waterfall! There are a few species of swift who nest on the rock behind waterfalls. Not sure which one this is.











They seem to have big eyes, for birds. They fly right into the waterfall. Fearless!






Now and then you can sneak a peek at Devil's Throat, off in the distance.


View of Salto San Martin, from Lower Circuit, Iguazu NP






The circuit is incredible. There are falls everywhere; it’s overwhelming!


Salto Adam, Eve, Bossetti, Lower Circuit, Iguazu NP







The two on the left are Adam and Eve Falls. The larger one is Bossetti Falls.










Here is a view from closer up. If you walk to the end of the catwalk you will get pretty wet!





Salto Dos Hermanas, Lower Circuit, Iguazu NP



Two Sisters Falls. Named for the two daughters of the second provincial governor. No word why the first governor didn't get that honor!



A look at our path among the waterfalls. The circuit was nicely done and the views were great. Now we started climbing to the upper circuit.








We saw monkeys and coatis along the way, of course. Because I didn’t have my camera! So I got a few cell phone shots. And a still shot frame grab from Chris's camera video.





This coati was just hanging out, begging to have his picture taken.







This caiman wasn't so close. At least he didn't care if we took his picture too.







We moved on to the upper circuit and that was a little more crowded. This is a different perspective of Adam, Eve, and Bossetti Falls.





On the upper circuit, you walk over the tops of the same falls you've seen from below. Nice to get both perspectives here.








We had been on this catwalk just a few minutes ago. Now we are at the top of Bossetti Falls.



Salto Mbigua, Upper Circuit, Iguazu NP







Here you are up close to the water as it rushes to the edge and tumbles into the void.








One last shot of the powerful river before we left the trail and walked back to the Melia Hotel.





Along the way, there is an old hotel which was the original one in this area. We had a few minutes to check it out along the way. Despite the (relative) crowds, we got to see everything quite well. And, the rain held off which was a great bonus, as the skies had looked threatening all morning.

Beef Ribs with Cassva - Lunch at Awasi Iguazu
We were back at the Melia by 11:00, and then home for an early lunch. They started serving at 12:30 so we ate outside and watched the storm clouds. I had some short ribs.




Broga with Plantain Chips - Lunch at Awasi Iguazu






Chris had a local fish with plantain chips.











We lingered over dessert and coffee before making one last trip to the villa.








Then it was time to pack up and (reluctantly) leave our villa at 2:30. Nieves picked up our luggage and we said our goodbyes to the incredible staff, then took our leave. Back to the airport!

The check-in lines weren’t long, but you can’t pass through security before your flight is called, so there was a crowd outside security. And it was a scrum to get through when the time came.

No biggie, but when we got through, we didn’t see a sky priority line for boarding. So we joined the very long line for our row. Once boarding time approached they put up a sky priority sign so we hopped into that, and we were one of the first to board. By jetway!
Taking off from Puerto Iguazu

The flight to BA was very smooth. We took off and then turned in a northerly direction, then turned west over Paraguay.


Paraguay Flyover, AR 1733 IGR-AEP












Parana River, Paraguay-Argentina Border, AR 1733 IGR-AEP




We crossed over the Parana River, into the Missiones Province of Argentina again, and then flew over parts of Brazil.




Uruguay River, Uruguay-Argentina Border


We skirted the river dividing Uruguay from Argentina,






Approaching Buenos Aires, AR 1733 IGR-AEP





Before we touched down at Newberry airport a few minutes early. Unfortunately there was another bus to the terminal…







Luggage claim was slow so we weren’t out of there until almost 7:15. We found a taxi, and the route wasn’t too circuitous. The ride took about 20 minutes, for $300 (US$ 7) – less than I’d expected to pay. We checked in and asked about a late checkout tomorrow, corresponding to our late flight, and got a confusing answer. So we figured we’d check back later.

Dinner at Dandy, Buenos Aires
We settled in and then went out wandering for a late (for us) dinner. First we checked out the happenings on Florida Street, which was fairly busy with street performers, vendors, and a few stores still open.

Nothing there to eat, so we came back to have a snack at Dandy, a café on the north side of Place San Martin, which our hotel staff had recommended. Salad and flatbreads hit the spot, along with some rosé wine.

Then off to bed!  Tomorrow, we have no real plans so we can sleep in.

Friday, January 18, 2019

Day 16 - Iguazu Falls, from Argentina and Brazil

Friday, January 18, 2019 – More Falls, and Brazil

We were both up by 5:30, and so we had time to spare before we had to get ready to start at 7:00. We drove to the park posthaste and entered early. Breakfast today was served at the Melia Hotel in the park itself, by special arrangement between Awasi and them.

View from Breakfast, Melia Hotel Iguazu Park
It was actually a fair amount better than the breakfast at Awasi. The menu was much larger, and they even have sparkling wine on the buffet!

And the view was impressive! You can see the mist from Devil's Throat from your breakfast table.







At 8:15 we started off to hike the Macuco Trail. We were the first ones on the trail and Nieves had to take down some spider webs as we passed through. This one was off to the side so we didn't have to disturb it.







Some nice flowers along the way.












And other flora too. Apparently these mushrooms are edible. We didn't try them.

Not Iguazu Falls









Nice jungle, with occasional muddy spots along the trail, but a great hike. There was a beautiful waterfall at the end. It was complete with a private swimming pool. We dunked our feet, while Nieves took a dip to cool off.









Coming back we heard toucan calls, saw ocelot tracks that were a day or so old, and we found fresh tapir tracks that weren’t there when we had passed through before. Just missed it! We did see some ants, very busy running along their own trail.



Back to the Melia Hotel, where we waited for Nieves to collect the truck. Then back to Awasi for a much-needed shower and cool down.

We had our lunch out on the patio while we watched the storm clouds gather. They had a taco special which we both had. The fries were a nice touch, but the salt was great after that big long hike.

Would Brazil be a wash out? That would be such a disappointment!




At 2:30 we started off and passed through Argentinian immigration, then Brazilian immigration and customs. A bit of a process, but they were happy with the e-visas which I had printed out, and we were through.

Waiting at Iguaçu NP, Brazil

On the way to the park it started pouring! We met our chauffered car part way there, and the driver followed us to the park entrance. We parked in an intense downpour. Ponchos on, we ran for shelter while Nieves bought tickets. It was quite a downpour!


Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, Iguaçu NP, Brazil




The Brazilian side works differently than the Argentine side. I was expecting to have to take the park bus from the ticket office to the falls walk, but Nieves had better ideas.

Awasi arranged a private car for us, so we don’t have to wait for the bus. No need to wait in a queue. And on cue, as we approached the Belmond Hotel, the rain stopped.


El Camino de las Cataratas, Iguaçu NP, Brazil





So we had dry weather to start along the Falls View Walk. And it was a great view!








There were cascades wherever you looked. In this view we are at the beginning of the walk, and Devil's Throat is hidden in the mist to the left.



Hotel Gran Meliá Iguazú, Iguazú NP, Argentina


This hotel on the other side looks familiar. It's where we had breakfast this morning! These two hotels are about 1/2 mile apart, as the crow flies. But it takes an hour to drive from one to the other. Crows don't need passports or immigration control.










Cascades of all sizes as we walked along.











The Brazilian lizards looked skinny compared to the big guy outside our hotel room, back in Argentina.




Rivadavia Falls, Camino de las Cataratas, Iguaçu NP, Brazil




Close-up of one of many falls on the Argentina side,






Rivadavia (top) and Three Musketeers Falls (bottom)






And a wider-angle view, showing the second tier of falls below.




Looking towards Devil's Throat, Iguaçu NP, Brazil




We could now start to see the main event, off in the distance.









Just an amazing landscape!






I am pretty sure that this is a different perspective of the Three Musketeers.












These falls are probably intermittent. Very small and delicate, hidden in the rainforest.





Catwalk over Santa Maria Falls, Iguaçu NP, Brazil







On the Brazilian side, there is a two-tier falls just next to Devil's Throat. You can walk out on the "mezzanine" level to get a closer view. Should we?


Salto Floriano, Iguaçu NP, Brazil








Time for the ponchos again, because the water spray is incredible! We left our good cameras with Nieves, grabbed our (hopefully) water-resistant cell phone cameras, and headed into the mist on the catwalk.






Into Devil's Throat, Iguaçu NP, Brazil



The force of the water coming down into Devil's Throat was intense. Mist was flying everywhere. You may get a few seconds to snap a picture before your lens gets drenched.








Much calmer looking over towards Salto Floriano.








Hard to compare to the Argentina side. Both experiences are neat but they are different. We were up above Devil's Throat yesterday and today, we seem to be deep down inside it. The amount of spray is much larger on this side.






No doubt you need rain gear here.










And don't bring any good cameras, unless you know that they are waterproof.








The sunglasses are more to protect our eyes from the constant spray, than to protect from glare.

Downriver, overlooking Santa Maria Falls, , Iguaçu NP, Brazil







When it gets too intense, turn away from the falls. There is always something to see here.











Drenched, we headed back to dry land. It felt cold now that we were wet, and the sun was obscured by clouds. But that didn't last long.






Of course, this is the perfect selfie spot, right at the edge of Salto Floriana.







We found an opening for Chris to pose.






Atop Salto Floriano, Iguaçu NP, Brazil





Almost at the end of the walkway! As we finished our circuit, the rain started up again. Couldn’t have timed it better. We climbed a set of steps to the exit.





Catwalk Overview, Iguaçu NP, Brazil





An overview shot, from the end of El Camino de las Cataratas. Time to head out before we get soaked.










But look, more coatis! They are scampering around the walkway, oblivious to all the tourists milling around.








They are probably looking for food. Speaking of which, I'm hungry too!




Crossing back into Argentina, Tancredo Neves Bridge



Our chauffered car was waiting and the driver dropped us off at the parking lot, where we hopped into the  Awasi truck for the drive home. A bit longer wait at both the Brazil exit, then we crossed the Tancredo Neves Bridge back to Argentina.


Waiting for Customs, Argentina





There was a bit of a wait at the Argentinian entry, maybe 10-15 minutes in all. Not bad at all, according to Nieves. It could be much worse. She said that sometimes it's a two hour wait!




But they have another trick up their sleeve if the wait is too long. They will radio to the lodge, and have another employee drive a truck to the border and park it on the Argentina side. That employee will then walk through immigration and come find us in the line. We would then leave our truck with the employee, walk across the border, and take the new truck home, while employee waits to clear customs. These guys think of everything!





We were home at 6:30 and got ready for dinner. We had a nice welcome drink – a mix of vodka, melon, and lemon juice topped with a float of Malbec! Very imaginative work by Pepe.






Some nice colors tonight. But certainly too cloudy for a full moon walk.





Beef Carpaccio, Dinner at Awasi Iguazu





We ate inside and had another great meal. I started with beef carpaccio and Chris had prawns.



Corn Rotolo, Dinner at Awasi Iguazu






Chris's main was interesting - a corn rotolo, which was a pasta-like tube made of corn flour, filled with vegetables. I had a nice piece of sirloin.







The usual animals were on the table as well. Come to think of it, we haven't seen a real toucan yet. Maybe tomorrow?








I had yerba mate for dessert. It was yerba mate ice cream over a crumble, with yerba mate tea also.






Off to bed early, right after dinner. We have another early wake up on our last day here. We will have breakfast at the hotel in the park again, so that we can get an early start hiking the falls circuits on the Argentina side.


Day 19 - Home to Winter at Last

Monday, January 21, 2019 – Back Home On Board AR 1300, EZE-JFK Dinner service was OK – beet salad to start, we both had salmon for an...